In this lesson I demonstrate how to draft a facing for our back pattern piece, including the important steps of favouring the seams to help make the design fit better, be more comfortable to wear and of course just look nicer.
In order to follow along with this course, you will need to have a sloper. We don't all get or make our slopers from the same sources, so I have included a whole lesson on how to adjust your sloper so that it's ready to draft the radial pleats. Please note that even if you are using slopers provided by Quick Need, you should still follow along with this lesson.
In this lesson I will teach you several things: - how to draw an oval shaped neckline, - how to accurately calculate the location of pleats along your new neckline, and - how draw to mark your pleats in so that they will radiate nicely.
Now we need to plan for how we are finishing our neckline. Generally you have a couple options, such as using a facing or binding with bias tape. For the purposes of this course I will teach you how to draft a separate facing for our neckline. I explain the basic differences between facings, before demonstrating how to draft your facing and build-in seam favouring.
In this lesson I demonstrate how to slash and pivot your pleats so that the needed excess fabric is now included in our pattern (when sewing you will fold this excess fabric back). You can do this step by eye, or by measurement (as I have taught) for more accuracy. Finally, I explain how to weigh your pleats so that they will drape nicely on your body.
At this point in the pattern drafting course you will need to redraw your neckline to make sure that it's smooth and follows the original shape. I then go on to demonstrate how to true up the pleats that we added so that the appropriate amount of fabric is included at the cutting lines.
In this lesson I teach you how to adjust your back sloper piece to make a minimalistic design, after all the focus is on our front neckline! We will adjust our back side seam, as well as slash and pivot our shoulder dart to make a singular neckline dart.
By now we are getting very close to our finished pattern pieces. Exciting, isn't it? In this lesson we do some of the necessary final touches such as squaring our seam edges, checking measurements between front and back pattern pieces to ensure pattern pieces fit together nicely, and finally checking our ease to make sure the pattern will fit nicely.