We are nearly finished the pattern drafting process! Are you excited? I am.
In this lesson we will finesse the sewing patterns that we have created to make sure that they will join without issues during the sewing stages.
Step 1: Square Your Edges
To make sure that we have nice smooth transitions across centre front and centre back sections, we need to make sure that any lines that intersect are at a 90 degree angle. Go back and check that your centre front neckline, centre front hem, centre back neckline and centre back hem are all squared.
It is okay if any of these lines have a slant to it after being initially squared off, just make sure that any changes aren’t too sudden and dramatic but rather a slow change.
Step 2: Check Shoulder Seam Measurements and Square
Double check your shoulder seam lengths. Even though I told you to in an earlier step, it’s almost a good idea to go back just to be safe.
Remember how I also told you to square out at least 1/4″? Now is the time to make sure that both sides of your shoulder seam are squared out. that includes both your neckline and your armhole. If one of them isn’t, simply square down at least 1/4″ and then redraw the line.
Step 3: Check Side Seams
Depending upon your body shape, chances are that this seam is going to have a different measurement than what we began with. Measure the front side seam from the armhole right down to the hem. Mine is 16″. Now measure the back sloper’s side seam from armhole to hem. Mine is 15.75″. Notice that 1/4″ difference?
What you will need to do if your seams don’t measure up the same is blend the differences between the two. I will need to drop the front side seam down by 1/8″ and raise the back up 1/8″.
Once I have adjusted their end locations, I will then need to blend my new hem line back to the centre front and back, making sure to keep the squared off section.
Step 4: Check Ease
Just to be safe, it’s always a good idea to do a last check up on the widths of pivotal fitting areas; think across front, bust, waist and hip areas. In this pattern we made the overall pattern larger by adding flare, so you shouldn’t run into any problems. However it’s a good habit to build from the beginning.