Since we have drafted our back neckline, we can now draft the facing for the back.
Step 1: Trace Your Neckline To New Pattern Pieces
Trace off the top section of your back sloper including the centre back, the new neckline, the shoulder line and the armhole. If you’re paper isn’t transparent, it can be helpful to use a tracing wheel.
Step 2: Draft Your Facing
Remember how I said that a facing is usually 1.5-2″ in width. When it comes to the back facing it should be longer than the front in width so that your top drapes nicely on your body. If the front of the shirt is too heavy the back of the top will pull up and the top will become uncomfortable.
Since your shoulder is the same length from front and back, mark the same length of the facing at the shoulder. Square out at least 1/4″.
An easy way to decide just how long to make your centre back facing is to double the width. Since I made my centre front width 10cm or 4″, I would ideally measure vertically 8″. I noticed that my bra straps are at 7″ down however, and I don’t want to add another layer of fabric on top of them. Instead I chose to measure down vertically only 6″.
I measure down 6″ on the centre back and square out a line. Since the back neckline isn’t as curved as the front you will have a longer horizontal squared line than the front. I continued this curve until roughly beneath my first dart leg.
Using a curve ruler make a nice gentle curve between the two lines.
Step 3: Make It Fit Better
To make sure that our facing lies flat nicely and doesn’t bunch up underneath the fabric, we need to reduce a couple of measurements. This will help it keep a more snug fit. Be reducing certain measurements we will also be building in favoring of our seams. What is favouring? Often when pressing a seam between internal and external fabric you might be asked to favour the external fabric so that the internal is hidden slightly under. This simple trick helps to hide the internal fabric from view.
Bring in your shoulder seam 1/16″. This will help it not bunch up when moving your arms around.
We don’t want the dart to exist in the facing as it will create unwanted bulk. Extend one of your dart legs until it intersects the bottom of your facing. Slash this line to create a hinge. Pivot your pattern to close out the dart at the neckline, noting that a dart opens up lower down in the pattern piece. This is fine for what we are doing.
Smooth out your back neckline, if necessary, and the facing’s hem.