Since I have been working on the Pattern Making Basics: Bodice taught by Suzy Furrer (review is still being written and published soon), I have been busy drafting and testing my own moulage patterns.
What is a moulage? Well it’s a skin-tight pattern that reflects your personal measurements exactly. From this perfectly fitted moulage you can add the necessary ease to make a sloper, that once again is tailored for you. And of course, from a sloper you can draft a variety of clothing!
If you want to make perfectly fitted clothing, then you should ideally start with a moulage. A moulage is great for anyone that regularly drafts clothing for themselves or a particular person. It’s also often used a lot in couture fashion.
Here is a picture of my first ever moulage!
The pattern on the top centre pieces of the moulage were complete accident; I honestly didn’t plan out pattern placement at all.
The waist looks a bit large, but it’s not actually that loose. When I measured myself, my waist measured 30″. By the time that I wore the moulage for the above picture I had lost some bloating (*sigh for bloating*) and my waist measured 29″. Keep in mind that most people’s stomaches fluctuate over the day, and month, depending upon what you have eaten and your hormones. It is natural to have slight changes in fitting, so don’t get too pedantic about your waist if it fluctuates easily.
The moulage is too loose at my under-bust. Whilst the darts I used to account for my cup size is fine, the princess seams beneath my bust weren’t as large as I needed.
You may also notice that the cross bust line is about 1″ too high. You don’t want to end exactly at your bust points as any darts at that location can cause a “pointed” effect; instead you want your cross bust line to be about 1/4″ above your actual bust points.
I learnt that my posture probably needs improving, as well. Most likely because I sit at a desk most of the day, my shoulders slant forward by about 1″ more than normal.
My back moulage pieces were actually fairly accurate, but my front ended up being much too high. In the first picture above you can actually see extra fabric at the back armscyth (you may need to click on the image to view it in a larger size). When I pull the back moulage pieces forward to my shoulder point, you can see that excess fabric disappear and lay flat against my armscyth.